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The soul of Malta- 3 Days in the Three Cities

The soul of Malta- 3 Days in the Three Cities

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When most travelers think of Malta, their minds often drift to the bustling streets of Valletta, the stunning cliffs of Gozo, or the clear blue waters of the Blue Lagoon. But nestled across the Grand Harbour lies a trio of fortified cities often overlooked, yet brimming with rich history, charming streets, and local culture: Vittoriosa (Birgu), Senglea (L-Isla), and Cospicua (Bormla), collectively known as the Three Cities.

These ancient cities, each unique yet intertwined through centuries of Maltese history, offer a window into Malta’s soul. Once the stronghold of the Knights of St. John, they were pivotal during the Great Siege of 1565 and played a crucial role during World War II. Today, they remain quieter than their tourist-heavy counterparts, allowing visitors to wander their narrow streets and sun-kissed harbors at a leisurely pace.

In this 3 day itinerary, I’ll guide you through a relaxed and enriching exploration of the Three Cities—from historical forts and beautiful churches to quaint local markets and scenic waterfronts. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a culture lover, or simply seeking a peaceful Mediterranean escape, the Three Cities offer a perfect blend of all that makes Malta unforgettable. Let’s dive into Malta’s hidden gems and experience the magic of these timeless cities.

Day 1: Unveiling Vittoriosa (Birgu)

Morning: Dive into History

Start with Breakfast at Birgu Waterfront

Begin your adventure with a leisurely breakfast at a café along the Birgu Waterfront, perhaps a cozy spot with views over the luxury yachts and the shimmering Grand Harbour. Enjoy a traditional Maltese ftira sandwich with ġbejna cheese, olives, and tomatoes, accompanied by freshly brewed coffee.

Birgu

Birgu Waterfront

Fort St. Angelo

Dedicate a substantial amount of time to exploring Fort St. Angelo, one of Malta's most significant fortifications. Walk through its centuries-old corridors, where the Knights of St. John once walked, and learn about its role during the Great Siege of 1565. The fort offers stunning views of the harbor and Valletta’s bastions across the water.

Fort St. Angelo

Birgu’s Backstreets

Afterward, head into Birgu’s historical core. Stroll through the narrow, winding streets with their beautifully adorned Maltese balconies, visit small artisan shops, and take your time to discover hidden courtyards. Visit the Church of St. Lawrence, a Baroque gem that was once the conventual church of the Knights of St. John.

Birgu’s Backstreets

Lunch in Victory Square

Stop for a leisurely lunch at a restaurant in Victory Square. Try Maltese specialties like rabbit stew (fenek) or pastizzi, savory pastries filled with ricotta or peas.

Pastizzi

Inquisitor’s Palace

Spend the early afternoon visiting the Inquisitor's Palace, a well-preserved historical building that offers a unique glimpse into Malta’s judicial history during the Inquisition. Explore the cells, audience chambers, and courtroom while learning about Malta's religious and political struggles during this period.

Inquisitor’s Palace

Maritime Museum

For maritime enthusiasts, the nearby Malta Maritime Museum showcases Malta’s long seafaring tradition, with impressive exhibits like old ships, cannons, and maritime tools.

Maritime Museum

Aperitivo at the Waterfront

Wind down your first day with a sunset aperitivo at the Birgu Waterfront. Sip on a glass of Maltese wine or a refreshing cocktail while watching the sunset cast golden hues over the city’s limestone walls.

Dinner in Birgu

For dinner, try one of Birgu’s fine dining restaurants, where you can enjoy a meal with freshly caught seafood and local wines. The atmosphere is calm, with the reflections of the city lights dancing on the water.

Getting to the Three Cities: Take a Scenic Taxi Boat

One of the most enjoyable and authentic ways to reach the Three Cities—Vittoriosa, Senglea, and Cospicua—is by taking a traditional Maltese taxi boat known as a dgħajsa. These charming water taxis operate from Valletta’s waterfront, right by the ferry terminal at Lascaris Wharf, and take you across the stunning Grand Harbour in just a few minutes.

The ride offers breathtaking views of Valletta’s majestic fortifications and the historic harbors of the Three Cities. It’s not only a convenient way to travel but also a chance to experience a bit of Malta’s maritime history. The dgħajsa boats are small, traditional wooden vessels that have been used by locals for centuries.

Cost: A one-way trip typically costs around €2-3 per person, making it an affordable and scenic option.

Tip: For an extra special experience, hop on the taxi boat at sunset when the golden light transforms the harbor, creating picture-perfect views!

Day 2: Senglea (L-Isla) and Cospicua (Bormla)

Morning: Tranquil Senglea

Breakfast in Gardjola Gardens
Start your day with a light breakfast in Gardjola Gardens. These tranquil gardens, located at the tip of Senglea, provide a peaceful start to your day. Grab a coffee from a nearby café and stroll through the park, soaking in the stunning views of Valletta and Fort St. Angelo from the iconic watchtower.

Gardjola Gardens watchtower

See more about Gardjola gardens here https://www.malta.com/en/attraction/culture/garden-park/gardjola-gardens

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Explore Senglea’s Streets

Afterward, wander through Senglea’s narrow, charming streets. The city is smaller and quieter than Birgu but equally rich in history. Visit the Basilica of Our Lady of Victories, a significant church built after the Great Siege, and marvel at its intricate interior.

Basilica of Our Lady of Victories

More about Basillica of Our Lady of Victories here https://www.malta.com/en/attraction/culture/church/church-of-our-lady-of-victories

Afternoon: Cross into Cospicua (Bormla)

Lunch at the Cospicua Waterfront

Make your way to Cospicua’s waterfront for lunch. Choose from one of the harbor-side restaurants and enjoy Maltese dishes with a view of the yachts and harbor activities. Try dishes like bragioli (beef olives) or lampuki pie (a fish pie made with Malta's seasonal dorado fish).

Cospicua Waterfront

Walk the Cottonera Lines

After lunch, take a scenic walk along the Cottonera Lines, the large fortification walls that once protected the Three Cities. The walk is peaceful, with excellent views of the surrounding areas.

More about Cottonera Lines https://www.malta.com/en/attraction/culture/building-fortification/the-cottonera-lines-cottonera

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Discover Cospicua’s Heart

Wander through Cospicua’s inner streets, where you’ll find traditional Maltese homes with colorful doors and balconies. Stop by the Church of the Immaculate Conception, a Baroque structure filled with artistic treasures.

Read more about Church of the Immaculate Conception https://www.visitmalta.com/en/attraction/Our-Lady-of-the-Immaculate-Conception/

Visit the Dockyard Area

Explore the historical Dockyard area, a working part of Malta’s maritime industry. The Dockyard Creek area is a reminder of the Three Cities’ rich naval history. You might also stop by SmartCity Malta, a modern development area that contrasts with the old cities but offers its own modern charms.

Dockyard area

Evening: Harbor Cruise and Dinner in Senglea

Grand Harbour Cruise

As evening approaches, hop on a traditional Maltese dgħajsa (boat) for a sunset cruise around the Grand Harbour. This short but beautiful ride will give you views of all Three Cities and Valletta from the water as the golden light of dusk illuminates the old fortifications.

Traditional Maltese dgħajsa

Dinner in Senglea

Enjoy a relaxing dinner at a cozy restaurant in Senglea, perhaps near the waterfront. Savor Mediterranean cuisine, with fresh seafood dishes and a glass of local wine. The quiet atmosphere of Senglea in the evening makes it the perfect place to unwind after a day of exploration.

Day 3: Slower Day of Exploration and Local Immersion

Morning: Markets and Local Culture in Cospicua

Cospicua Local Market

Begin your final day by visiting the Cospicua market. If you’re lucky enough to be there on a Sunday, you’ll find the bustling open-air market filled with locals buying fresh produce, meats, cheeses, and Maltese treats. Grab a bite to eat from one of the street vendors while enjoying the local vibe.

Hidden Chapels and Artisan Shops

Spend a slower morning walking through Cospicua to visit smaller chapels and artisan shops. Chapel of St. Paul is a quiet stop, and there are often local craftsmen selling traditional Maltese lace, pottery, and other handmade items.

Relaxed Lunch in Birgu or Senglea

Head back to Birgu or Senglea for a leisurely lunch. Revisit any favorite spots and try a new restaurant along the waterfront.

Swim at a nearby coastal area, like St. Thomas Bay, for a quiet beach day.

St. Thomas Bay

Wrap-up at the Three Cities Waterfront

As your last afternoon winds down, spend some time along the waterfront of Birgu, Cospicua, or Senglea. Walk along the marinas or find a café for a final coffee, soaking in the serene atmosphere before your departure.

Final Dinner in Birgu

For your last evening, treat yourself with a special dinner at one of Birgu’s fine dining restaurants. Go all out with a multi-course meal, enjoying the best Maltese wine and dishes like grilled octopus or slow-cooked rabbit, a Maltese classic.

As your 3 day journey through Malta’s Three Cities comes to an end, you’ll leave with a deeper understanding of the island’s rich heritage, far beyond the well-trodden paths of Valletta or Mdina. Vittoriosa, Senglea, and Cospicua is a unique glimpse into Malta’s past.

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